Julia Wertz

Sep 252020
 

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The Baker Hotel, located in Mineral Wells, Texas, was a renowned luxury resort and spa that operated from 1929 to 1972. The history of the hotel is one of opulence and glamour as well as mysterious deaths and ghost stories, most of which I refuse to entertain on the grounds of nonsense. At 14 stories high, the hotel looms over the town in a Bran Castle-esk manner and upon its construction was considered the first skyscraper built outside of a metropolitan city. The hotel hosted numerous politicians and celebrities and was a rumored pit stop for Bonnie and Clyde.

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At first blush, old promotional postcards could be understandably accused of embellishing the building’s prominence,  but I assure you it was/is accurate. Unfortunately, I didn’t get very good exterior shots while there, and Google Earth 3D was hilariously unhelpful.

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The Baker Hotel in its heyday.

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The Baker Hotel now. Despite being abandoned for 40 years, the facade is in remarkably good condition due to its status as a historical landmark.

The Baker was the result of efforts by disgruntled Mineral Wells locals who were upset that outsiders were profiting from Mineral Well’s “magic water,” which I will discuss later in far too much detail. The residents wanted something they could run themselves, so they commissioned Theodore Baker to build a hotel similar to the two reputable ones he already ran in other cities. 

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Designed by Wyatt C. Hedrick, construction of the Baker took three years. It might have taken less time had Mr. Baker not halted construction because he decided the hotel should have a swimming pool, which seems reasonable considering the Baker was in the middle of the goddamn desert.

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Construction of the hotel cost $1.2 million, which is about $13.6 million today. The last restoration proposal for the Baker in 2010 estimated a cost of $54 million, which is probably why it currently looks like this:

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The hotel lobby in the 1930s.

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The hotel lobby now.

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As with all infamous hotels, the Baker has its requisite ghost stories. There’s the ghost of Mr. Baker’s mistress Virginia, who supposedly threw herself from the 7th floor when he dumped her. There are the ghosts of a young elevator operator who was crushed to death, a drunk woman who tried to jump into the pool from the 14th floor, the cook’s mistress who was stabbed by said cook, and so on and so on. Google the Ghost Hunter’s episode about the Baker Hotel if you enjoy intense irritation.

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The Baker opened its doors just days after the stock market crash of 1929 and was bankrupt by 1932.* Despite financial difficulties, the hotel did well throughout the ’30s by catering to the upper class in nearby cities. It’s probably safe to assume that some of its success during the early years was contributed to rumored illegal gambling, as well as elicit liquor sales during prohibition.

*Sources are conflicted about this. No one seems to know for sure if the hotel itself went bankrupt in 1932 or if Theadore Baker went bankrupt in 1934 or a combination of both, but either way, there were money problems aplenty.

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The hotel’s dining room and live music hall, called the Brazo’s Club, circa 1930s.

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Guest rooms at the Baker featured extravagant new technologies such air conditioning, laundry chutes, and “an advanced hydraulic system that circulated ice water to all 450 guest rooms.” Doors to individual rooms had a key-controlled mechanism that turned the lights and fans on and off automatically, which sounds convenient but just imagine the numerous ways that could go wrong in a Benny Hill-esk manner.

Some before/afters of guest rooms.

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And some random shots of rooms:

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Despite the Baker’s celebrity cachet and rumored ghost stories, the most intriguing part of its history isn’t actually the hotel itself, but rather the town in which it’s located: Mineral Wells.

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Mineral Wells used to refer to itself as “home of crazy,” in reference to the natural mineral water that made the town famous. It began with a story from the 1880’s about a well, a crazy old lady, and magic mineral water with healing properties; a trifecta of tall tales. Purportedly, the mineral water cured her “nervousness,” as it was called back then, and the water was soon declared a panacea for all ailments from arthritis to lunacy. This dubious claim put Mineral Wells on the map, but considering how people back then used to only drink whiskey and beer (as drinking water was often contaminated) it’s probably safe to say they got better just by drinking good old fashioned, clean, healthy water.

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The town flourished in the early 1900s due to a mineral water craze, which they capitalized on with their ‘crazy water’ and became home to over 20 mineral water companies, bathhouses, resorts, spas, and hotels, the most ostentatious being the Baker.

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In 1914, pharmacist and head of the Famous Mineral Water Company, Ed Dismukes, created “crazy crystals,” which were essentially the remnants of boiled mineral water. Throughout the ’20s and ’30s, Crazy Crystals were marketed as yet another disease cure-all when added to regular water. Crazy Crystals were especially renowned for the treatment of ‘colon ailments,’ which makes sense when you consider what Crazy Crystals actually were: salt. If you mix enough salt with water and drink it, it’ll give you wicked bad diarrhea. I learned this after I got caught in a riptide at Ocean Beach and swallowed tons of saltwater and spent the evening enduring a surprise colon cleanse.

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In 1940, Crazy Crystals were debunked by the FDA, which issued Dismukes a cease and desist in regards to his falsified claims of the crystal’s curative powers. Dismukes was able to continue selling Crazy Crystals as long as he didn’t make any more claims about their efficacy, but without the promises of health and eternal youth, their popularity dwindled. The hype around mineral water, crystals, and spas rapidly declined in the ’40s and ’50s, aided by a new magic now commonly known as ‘modern medicine,’ primarily penicillin. (The history of experimentation with penicillin is somewhat horrifying, but this is neither the time nor place for such a tangent, being that I’m already on one.)

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Various forms of Crazy Crystals still exist today- such as Epsom salts- marketed more appropriately as bathwater skin softeners and laxatives. You can actually still order and consume “Crazy Water” from Mineral Wells.

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In the 1940s, the general public denounced the magic of mineral water and moved on to other dubious health fads such as vitamin D enhanced Schlitz beer and the ‘cigarette diet,’ for which one of the many slogans was “reach for a Lucky instead of a sweet!” Doctors also began prescribing the sun as a remedy for countless ailments, and the Baker was at the forefront of this trend.

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Along with cigarettes and booze, the sun became the zenith of cures, and spas began marketing ‘ultraviolet ray therapy,’ commonly referred to as heliotherapy and now known as skin cancer. Light therapy is still around, but modern treatments filter out ultraviolet light, which we all know is bad and makes you look old as balls.

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Hotel spa & solarium.

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Solarium “sun bed.”

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Solarium sun beds and whatever the hell that thing with the elevated foot rest is.

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‘Valet doors’ (what they called the laundry chutes) and the colonic irrigation room.

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The chair in which one would recline whilst having one’s colon irrigated.

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Photo from an ad about the spa services offered at the hotel. 

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The spa at the Baker touted the use of the “electric cabinet,” which sounds like a safe and fun thing to lock your body inside, no? While you sit inside the ‘cabinet,’ steam is supposed to cleanse your filthy, disgusting body of all its toxins.

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I love how this cartoon ad for the Baker spa describes it as being “scientifically toasted,” and claims it’s an “antidote for the jitters.” Toasted! The jitters! Mental and physical instability was pretty cute back then. Call me a rube, but I had no idea these things existed outside of cartoons (when a fat guy goes in and comes out a skeleton!!!) but they do, and they’re called “sitting steam bath chambers.” When you look them up on the internet, they’re mostly only a thing in Sweden and Thailand, which sounds about right. Here in America, we like to sweat it out in saunas filled with staph infections and other peoples’ farts.

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A spa ‘recovery’ room, which sounds redundant until you consider everything I just described.

After thriving in the 30s, the Baker began a rapid decline, revived only briefly during WWII when a military base opened nearby and soldiers and their families made temporary homes of the hotel. Interestingly, the hotel had many tiles that looked like this: (screenshot from Ballad of the Baker.)

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But before you get your knickers in a twist, the tiles were put in place before this symbol represented Nazi Germany. Prior to WWII, the symbol was used with positive intention for over 3,000 years by different cultures. Then Hitler adopted/ruined it for forever. In the context of the Baker, it was used as the Navajo symbol for the sun. (I trust I do not need to point out why that was pretty fucked as well.)

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Rooftop penthouses overlooking Mineral Wells.

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The Baker Suite then & now:

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A view of the Baker from 100 3rd ave in olden times and today. The current one is a google maps screenshot since I didn’t have any ‘before’ photos when I visited the Baker. I just got extremely lucky with the ones I posted here. If you take a gazillion photos, at least 5-10 will match up pretty well.

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The driveway/courtyard then and now:

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Hotel lobby then/now:

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A lot of the original moldings in the lobby are still somewhat intact, or at least partially visible. Here are a few mediocre images I threw together since I didn’t have time to take close-ups of the details. There was a little kerfuffle involving us almost getting trapped inside the building as workers sealed up all the entrances and exits while we were still inside. 

Old photos of the Baker on this post are from the Baker HotelCrazy Water and google images from defunct ebay sales.  You can see my full set of the Baker Hotel photos on flickr.

Disclaimer: If any information is incorrect, if you have more info, or if you’d just like to tell me something, feel free to contact me.

To support my work and see new comics, go here. To buy books, original artwork, merch, and more, visit my website store. Follow me on instagram

Jul 172020
 

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It’s hard to describe the current state of Harlem’s P.S. 186 without falling into the dreaded verbal blackhole of flowery rhetoric that plagues urban exploration writing. I can’t count how many times I’ve read the phrase “reclaimed by nature” in regards to a “concrete jungle” or “lost city” and while I understand the compulsion to use those trite phrases, I wish more writers would resist the urge. So I’m not going to attempt to describe P.S. 186 beyond perfunctory observations, the photos will have to suffice.

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P.S. 186 opened in 1903 in West Harlem. Five stories high and 100,000 square feet, the elementary school operated for 72 years. It closed in 1975 amidst safety concerns as the top floors began to crumble and reports of robberies and attacks increased. Here’s the building during its functional years:

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And here’s how it looks today c/o Googlemaps. I forgot to get an exterior shot and even though Harlem is  just a few miles from where I live, a few miles in NYC isn’t just a ‘pop over and snap a photo’ pit stop, it’s three trains and a whole afternoon, so I’m phoning this one in.

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According to an archived New York Times article, the school principal stated that “the most urgent problems at the school…[were] security and fire hazards.” The building’s H shape (as you can see below c/o googlemaps) created cul-de-sacs in which “hundreds of children and teachers would be trapped” in the event of a fire.

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In response, the fire department required 13 doors to remain open, which led to the public using the building as a shortcut to the neighboring street, which increased crime inside the school. Multiple robberies and a rape at gunpoint were reported. 

Despite the crime and child endangerment, the city government did nothing, as they were often wont to do when it came to schools with mostly black students. So in 1972, the National Economic Growth and Reconstruction Organization (NEGRO) took matters into their own hands and removed students from the school due to safety concerns. The NYT reported that “60 members of the black self-help organization…moved into the school and shut down the top three floors of the five-story building.” 

Although the principal claimed to have no knowledge of the organization’s plans, he claimed he was “surprised, but very much elated,” as they were “placing the school under citizen’s arrest.” The article doesn’t go into detail about why the principal was pleased, but assuming things worked back then how they do now, with glacially paced bureaucratic nonsense and a fuck ton of paperwork, having an external group take immediate action is a convenient way around that problem without getting the administration in trouble.

NEGRO’s actions caused a temporary evacuation of the remaining students while the fire department conducted a safety search. The department claimed they saw no immediate concerns, but NEGRO cited multiple fire hazards as well as health concerns (aka rats.) In 1975, with a budget for a new school finally approved, P.S. 186 closed.

P.S 186 class of 1942- school courtyard then and now:

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In 1986, the school was sold for $215,000 to the Boys & Girls Club of Harlem. According to the NYT, the sales contract stipulated that “85 percent of the usable floor area was to be dedicated to nonprofit community use, and development of the property was to be substantially completed within three years.” Those plans never developed and the building remained abandoned. After 40 years of neglect, it was purchased and restored by Dattner Architects, who reopened it as affordable housing. See some “now” photos on their site

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Now that we’ve got that covered, let’s go through the building as it was on the day I explored it in 2013. I’ll start in the basement, which, like most building basements, is a mishmash of old machinery and electrical junk.

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Above is a tubular boiler, it looked like this when in use:

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Fittingly, the basement of P.S. 186 happens to be where the photography darkroom was located:

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The darkroom floor is littered with old bottles and the shelf has grown an impressive mass of whatever nightmare the combination of chemical reactions, mold, and time has given birth to.

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If I ever die of some mysterious lung infection that “hasn’t been seen in hundreds of years, and never before in a human,” feel free to show my exploring photos to the doctor.

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The first (ground) floor is boarded up pretty well with cinderblocks and wood, allowing only bits of natural light in here and there. Chunks of ceiling have fallen down and chalkboards are either missing, peeling or cracking. (Or full of graffiti, as you’ll see later, but vandals didn’t really bother with the first floor.)

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A fire destroyed parts of the first floor and although not really visible under natural light, a collapsed ceiling and piles of desks and chairs blocked this stairway to the second floor.

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The second floor classrooms have more natural light…

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…because there are no curtains, shades or glass in any of the windows anymore.

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The second floor consists of mostly hallways and classrooms, all of which have at least one open wall of windows and have been exposed to the elements for almost 40 years now.

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The trees and saplings that have taken root in the classrooms have made the wood floors too sketchy to walk on, although most of the debris on the ground is from fallen windowsills and ceiling.

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There are a lot of old coat closets still in semi decent shape.harlem ps 186

On the second floor, I found a little library, which didn’t amount to more than a walk-in closet littered with old math pamphlets and history books with very aesthetically pleasing covers.IMG_4682

These books, stacked on the top shelf, were titled “Adventures Now and Then,” which, come to think of it, would have been a great name for this blog.

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The auditorium on the fourth floor.

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Big hunk of ceiling atop the middle rows of chairs:

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Considering these chairs are wood, they’re in surprisingly good condition. Unsurprisingly, covered in bird poop.

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And finally, we’ve reached the top floor where the gymnasium is located. I was going to say something about how you’d have to be a complete moron to walk out on this floor (as I’ve seen in other photos) because the wood is rotted and full of holes, but then I considered the overall moronic nature of exploring abandoned places, and, well, touché.

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When I posted the tree photo below on instagram, someone left this comment: “A clear struggle of life reaching for the light (heaven) but only reaching the looking glass reflecting inevitable decay and death.”  WOOF, ammiright?

A full set of photos can be seen in the P.S. 186 Flickr set

Disclaimer: If any information is incorrect, if you have more info, or if you’d just like to tell me something, feel free to contact me.

To support my work and see new comics, go here. To buy books, original artwork, merch, and more, visit my website store. Follow me on instagram

Jul 132016
 

fire

On July 12th 2015, the best abandoned building at Middletown Psychiatric Center burned down. (Top photo c/o Middletown Fire Dept.) Previously known as the Middletown State Homeopathic Hospital (and State Homeopathic Asylum) the large brick building was the oldest and most historically significant structure on the campus. I’ve been holding onto my photos of Middletown for a future book, but it seems appropriate now to go ahead and publish them online.

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Built in 1874, Middletown operated differently from other psychiatric facilities at the time, treating its patients with homeopathic methods. Homeopathy is the belief that “like treats like,” and relies on a number of natural remedies, the efficacy of which is dubious. I’m saving my laborious research of homeopathy for print, but I’ll mention here that while homeopathy was not a good treatment for severe mental illnesses, the practices and philosophy of the homeopathic lifestyle were often more helpful for less severe mental illnesses than the techniques most asylums were using around the turn of the century. (And that many psychiatric hospitals use today.)

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The most useful technique was outdoor physical therapy, as opposed to having patients locked in the wards all day. As one form of physical therapy, Middletown had its patients play baseball. They even formed an official baseball team called The Asylums, comprised of patients and externally drafted semi-pro players. By 1890, the Asylums were playing against regional baseball teams, and winning the vast majority of their games. Some of the patients went on to play professionally after their release.

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John Chesbro, a famous baseball player who played for The Asylums. Chesbro was not a patient, but he worked as an attendant at Middletown in order to be able to play for their baseball team.

In 1901, famous romanticist painter Ralph Albert Blakelock became a patient at Middletown, however he was unable to convince the hospital staff that he was a famous painter with works hanging in galleries. The staff viewed his claims as evidence of his insanity.  In 1916, one of his landscape paintings sold for $20,000, breaking the record for a sold painting by a living American artist. A young reporter discovered Blakelock’s whereabouts, and revealed his identity  to the hospital staff. Blakelock was consequently released into the care of socialite Sadie Filbert, aka Beatrice Van Rensselaer, who stole all his money. He died three years later.

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Throughout the 20th century, some of Middletown’s grandest buildings were demolished and/or renovated. Very few remained in their original state, although the building that burned down was one of them. Others can be still be seen on the campus, even if only part of the building still exists.

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In the mid-to-late 1900s, attendance at Middletown dwindled, as it did in all American asylums at the time, due to deinstitutionalization and refinancing of state medical care. Middletown changed its focus to outpatient programs, but ultimately closed in 2006. Various social services and rehab facilities continued to operate on the campus, which was mostly abandoned.

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There were two similar, large pavilions on the Middletown campus. I’m not entirely sure which one remained, or which was the one that burned, but it’s evident due to the architectural structure that one of the pavilions remained, minus the top floor. Look at the windows of the top right corner of the tall building above, compared to the corner of the building that burned, below)

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middletown state hospital

the following fire photos are c/o the Middletown Fire Department’s Facebook page.

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Below are more photos from the inside of the now destroyed building:

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There are a few other abandoned structures on the property, most of which are completely unmemorable, except for this staircase and a few other amusing things.

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Recently revealed grave markers in the patient graveyard near the campus. For decades, the markers were lost in the overgrown field, but are now being slowly uncovered and restored.

To see more photos, go to my Middletown Flickr set.

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Disclaimer: If any information is incorrect, if you have more info, or if you’d just like to tell me something, feel free to contact me.

To support my work and see new comics, go here. To buy books, original artwork, merch, and more, visit my website store. Follow me on instagram

Dec 152015
 

Birchwood was a quiet honeymoon resort, that like most Poconos resorts, had a heyday in the 60s and saw a rapid decline leading to mass closures in the 80s and 90s. Birchwood was briefly in the news in 2014 when a convicted cop-killer Eric Frein was caught hiding in the airplane hanger at the Birchwood airport, where he’d been holed up for seven weeks. 

Birchwood is owned by the guy who owns Spa Castle in Queens, and he stated he had plans to open another spa castle at Birchwood, however as of 2022, that had not happened. In 2021, a fire completely destroyed one of the main buildings. Two men were later arrested for arson. 

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The airplane hanger Eric Frein hid out in.

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See more photos of Birchwood on flickr.

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Disclaimer: If any information is incorrect, if you have more info, or if you’d just like to tell me something, feel free to contact me.

To support my work and see new comics, go here. To buy books, original artwork, merch, and more, visit my website store. Follow me on instagram

Jun 152015
 

loew's palace theatre

Quick background about the theaters: Although separate theaters, both the Poli Palace and Majestic Theatre share the same building, along with the abandoned Savoy Hotel, in Bridgeport, CT. The theaters opened in 1922. The Majestic closed in 1971, and the Poli Palace closed in 1975. They’re both currently owned/maintained, so they’re in fairly good condition. The Majestic is used for prop and costume storage. The theaters began with vaudeville and silent films, moving into major motion pictures, and for a brief time, adult films.

The Poli Palace Theatre: 

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The Majestic Theatre:

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Attached to both theaters is the abandoned Savoy Hotel.

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To see more photos of Poli Palace, the Majestic and Savoy Hotel, go to my flickr set.

Disclaimer: If any information is incorrect, if you have more info, or if you’d just like to tell me something, feel free to contact me.

To support my work and see new comics, go here. To buy books, original artwork, merch, and more, visit my website store. Follow me on instagram

May 272015
 

the New York World's Fair

To read about the history of the New York World’s Fair (and its lampposts) please go to the New Yorker to read my comic about it. The second to last panel has a very romantic surprise, if you’re into that kinda thing. Spoiler alert: he said yes. Then come back here to enjoy this gallery of photos.

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The comic references this post I did on Penn Hills, where I first discovered the relocated World’s Fair lampposts. The story ends with plans to have the posts installed at Flying Dollar Airport in the Poconos.

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The most prominent structures that remain are the New York Pavilion, aka the Tent of Tomorrow,  the observation towers, and the Unisphere. The Tent of Tomorrow hosted concerts and various technological demonstrations. During the 70s, it was briefly reopened as a skating rink.

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Recently while I was taking photos of the fair, the New York Pavilion was briefly left open. I ran inside and snapped a few photos. The last time they let people in, they had to wear hardhats and wait for three hours in line. SUCKERS.

Here’s the Pavilion in action in 1964 c/o Shorpy:

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And in 2012, before the base was repainted (in 2015)

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the New York World's Fair

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The interior recently got a fancy paint job and some landscaping done, but below is what it looked like for many years. (the above photo was taken in 2015, below 2011.)

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the New York World's Fair

The Observation Towers once held a cafeteria and VIP lounge. The highest tower served as an observatory over the fair.

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The towers with people in them, courtesy of the Huffington Post.

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the New York World's Fair

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the New York World's Fair

the New York World's Fair

the New York World's Fair

To see more photos, go to my New York World’s Fair Flickr set. Read all of my NYC history comics at the New Yorker.

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Disclaimer: If any information is incorrect, if you have more info, or if you’d just like to tell me something, feel free to contact me.

To support my work and see new comics, go here. To buy books, original artwork, merch, and more, visit my website store. Follow me on instagram

Apr 292015
 

Bottle Beach at Dead Horse Bay

2018 update: My comic about Bottle Beach eventually became part of my book Tenements, Towers & Trash, and you can hear me talk about in on the New Yorker Radio Hour.

Bottle Beach at Dead Horse Bay

These round bottom bottles were made in the mid 1800’s and up. It’s fairly rare to find something like this still intact at Bottle Beach.

Bottle Beach at Dead Horse Bay

Many bottles have been strung up on a downed tree at the shoreline over the years. Hurricane Sandy knocked a lot of them off, but a few remain.

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Horse bones I shouldn’t have brought home because gross, and an old metal circus toy I shouldn’t touch because it’s probably full of lead.

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Not sure what this bottle held, but a few online sources guess it was photo developing chemicals.

Bottle Beach at Dead Horse Bay

Where the beach meets the landfill that connects to Floyd Bennett Field.

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Bottle Beach at Dead Horse Bay
Bottle Beach at Dead Horse Bay

Cleaner part of where the beach ends and the landfill begins. This is a separate landfill from the underwater one that produces all the bottles.

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Bottle Beach at Dead Horse Bay
Bottle Beach at Dead Horse Bay
Bottle Beach at Dead Horse Bay
Bottle Beach at Dead Horse Bay
Bottle Beach at Dead Horse Bay
Bottle Beach at Dead Horse Bay
Bottle Beach at Dead Horse Bay

Some turn of the century shoes.

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Bottle Beach at Dead Horse Bay
Bottle Beach at Dead Horse Bay
Bottle Beach at Dead Horse Bay

Urine specimen bottle amongst regular ol’ jam jars.

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Various stages of barnacle growth.

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I don’t really know what this is but I hate it!!

Bottle Beach at Dead Horse Bay
Bottle Beach at Dead Horse Bay

You can see more photos on my Bottle Beach at Dead Horse Bay Flickr set. Read all of my NYC history comics at the New Yorker.

Disclaimer: If any information is incorrect, if you have more info, or if you’d just like to tell me something, feel free to contact me.

To support my work and see new comics, go here. To buy books, original artwork, merch, and more, visit my website store. Follow me on instagram